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  • Print head not extruding

    Began first print and ended up stopping due to time constraints. It worked pretty well. The base stuck to tape without lifting. Each layer bonded well etc. Came back the next day. Extruder acted clogged. It wouldn't feed properly. I cannot get the base to print. I made sure to zero a dis before print etc. How do you guys clean printhead? How do you shutdown machine what order do you power down the boxes, any special procedures? Do you leave filament in the machine when you shutdown? Without the heater on does your a axis motor get hot? The only changes I made between two prints was to go from mesh fill to solid fill and increase overlap. I made no changes to the base print settings and the above should not have effected the base print. I spent 10 hours fooling with this over the last 4 nights and it seems to be getting worse.

  • #2
    Tweaked my print settings and at least got it to start printing again. No foundation adhesion though. leveled plate put down new tape cleaned with alcohol turned off retraction zeroed a axis before starting. It looks like the tip raises up almost an 1/8" before it starts printing. I think this is what's causing problem. How do I improve foundation settings. I read documentation but things like volume were not addressed. So which way (higher or lower value) would improve the foundation for each of the following: Layer parameters Nozzle diameter .016default Layer thickness .010default First layer Thickness .006default Feedrate set at 25 by default recommends 30 in documentation Foundation Thickness.025default Base density30default Top density20default Volume5default Does fill setting or shell thickness or shell overlap have any effect on foundation? I ask because these are the only items I've changed resulting in bad foundation prints. Thank you for your help

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    • #3
      Rallyview, I have been using exterior Bluewater from 3m and using abs juice when printing abs with really good results. usually I put a piece of paper under the nozzle, and decrease z axis until the paper isn't able to move then on the slow speed up the z axis a hair about .005. For the PLA no slurry and used the interior painters tape, while setting the head height the same way. I know the z axis does sound all that scientific but I am consistently getting great prints and raft adhesion. I work to abs because the raft cleanup etc... I have been printing with .005 z resolution with very little post processing aftwards.

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      • #4
        I appreciate the feedback. I may try to increase the the print tip heat. I'm really frustrated since my first print went well but now the stuff just curls up the the print tip and refuses to create a good base. I think the key is somewhere in the software but have not been able to generate a print file that gives me a base that will stick again.

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        • #5
          (Just noticed autocorrect replaced blue tape with blue water). Are you using PLA or ABS? The sample that comes with the machine is PLA. Yes the feed rate can make a difference too, but for the PLA, I used the default settings for 'test' form the slicer software.

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          • #6
            Oh also tip temp makes a difference too. For PLA I am using 220 degrees F, and for the ABS I am using 240 decrees F. Also after setting the z height and setting it to zero, I then up the z height to about an inch and by now the nozzle should be at temp, but if you press feed it will cool the tip. I generally press feed 10-15 times at this point. When the initial material feed goes through the tip cools down since the material initially going through can cool it down. This also allows you to check for good feeding without clogs and a clean tip. After that I clear the fed extruded material. When it's done no material is coming out, I send the nozzle to home and start up a print.

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