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  • Heating Bed

    I have been expanding my 3D printing repertoire and have ventured into ABS vs. the PLA that Nextwave provides in the kit on account I used it up and ordered ABS instead of PLA. As with most ABS prints, the first layer is a real challenge to get to stick without a heated bed which is not part of the printer kit. That being said - I am very happy how the Piranha is printing the ABS. I am planning on setting up a heated bed with a temp controller like the one for the extruder using both an aluminum spreader attached to the T slots with a heat plate siliconed to it, and then clamp some other borosilicate glass to the while leveling it out. Has anyone out there explored using a heat plate with the Piranha *yet*? In the meantime since the PLA first layers stick well enough with blue tape, I have used my little remaining PLA to build the raft and 1st few percent and then while the machine is printing I swap out the PLA filament for the ABS... It's a hack for now until I get a bed up and going or go back to just PLA. ABS does have the advantage of being able to be smoothed with Acetone where PLA does not.

    Nextwave - It would be a great addon to the 3D thermal control box for the extruder to also have a controller for a heatplate, especially if it were possible to control it from the panel and/or in the slicing program being used. It might be good to indicate if the temp were PLA vs ABS etc... to adjust the heat plate parameters too...???

    Thanks all

    Scott


  • #2
    Well after a lot of web pages and watching youtube videos, before building a Heating bed I thought I would try the ABS Juice method. I didn't have any Kapton tape, but I still had the blue tape on the bed. So I sanded the tape to scuff it up some, and prepared some ABS Juice (Acetone and bits of ABS) and painted it on scuffed paint. On the first try the print stuck to the prepped surface. The print will take 4 hours so we will see but at this point (30% into it) things look real good. So I hope this helps others out there and contemplating to build a heating bed or not... So far no warping either - albeit its not a huge print either.

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    • #3
      After 4 hours of printing, and using the scuffed up painters tape with ABS Juice, the print stuck and didn't warp, albeit it was a small footprintl. However, two layers of juice may have been too much. I had to use the putty knife to extract it from the taped bed and needed to retape the bed. Next print - I will try one coat applied to the surface. Overall great print with ABS and no Heated bed!!! This was a test fit, next up the full sonar mount print to evaluate the overlap... stay tuned. Attached is the final print of a sonar sensor base on the print bed, and the sensor mount on the robot. Most of the robot shown is able to be made with the CNC and now the 3D Printer. When these parts are dialed in and done, it will be time to use the cnc router to do a PCB...

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