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New Issue: touch plate shorting out, and general zeroing problems.

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  • #16
    Tony,

    Did they have any reason that your touch plate would not work?

    I did run mine today carving with no problems the file I used VCarved 2 thing2 and cut 2 3d items with 3 toll changes during the project. I did notice when using the touch plate that the router would raise a little bit before reversing so I changed the speed of how fast it lowered and that solved the problem. I actually ran toolpaths at higher feed rates than I use on my Shark HD and I think I can boost those a little bit more.

    I guess I need to test the laser module next or maybe 2 ornaments for Christmas presents for my grandson and great granddaughter who were born this year.

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    • Joseph Poirier
      Joseph Poirier commented
      Editing a comment
      When the touchplate cables break, it is usually the line leading to the magnet that separates from the main wire. They are soldered and shrink wrapped, but over time they come apart. They last much longer when the user pulls the magnet off by the hard plastic magnet than they will if the user yanks the magnet off by the wire.

    • meb
      meb commented
      Editing a comment
      Mine had a bad solder joint at the banana plug, I re-soldered and shrink wrapped it. Other people have had the same thing happen. I don't think they are tinning the plug before soldering.

  • #17
    They really didn't offer a reason, but said they were sending a new one to me, no charge. I noticed a little difference in how the router acted when using the touch plate vice manually setting the zero, too.

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    • #18
      After I slowed down the speed that the Z lowered when detecting the touch plate everything seemed to work good but before I did the router raised when the bit hit the plate before it detected the plate and started raising. Slowing the speed gave it more time to detect the plate.

      Comment


      • #19
        OK, here's something I need to know about zeroing. I read somewhere here that you can use a bit (like the ball nose) to get the x and y zero points, then manually adjust the laser's z axis zero.

        So, today, I did that. The particular project I was making needs both laser and carving. So, I zeroed using the bit... swapped over to the laser, since I wanted to get that done first.. then swapped over to the bit and the only thing I re-adjusted was the z-axis zero point.

        When I ran the laser, it was fine. When I swapped over to the carving bit, the zero changed on the Y axis.

        Before anyone asks, I made sure this time that the machine did NOT overdrive back into the Y axis stop at the back of the machine. It just started cutting about 1/2 inch too low, and cut through some of the laser work. VERY frustrating. In the file, there is no over-carving. Everything looks OK. It's only in the REAL world that the problem occurs.

        Anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Like I said, I didn't adjust the Y axis after changing from carving bit, to laser, and back to carving bit. Only the z axis.

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        • #20
          Was the laser a raster image or a vector image? The raster tool lets you adjust the starting point to be Upper Left, Lower Left, Upper Right and Lower Right either in absolute or relative coordinates and that can really mess things up because it does a move before cutting that can shift your image by the size of the image in basically any direction depending upon your settings.

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          • #21
            Yes, I saw his site before. I have a design for a table extension that can be built out of 3/4" stock. I'm planning on using spare maple or oak prefinished hardwood flooring so it has a nice smooth finish too. I'll post it in the main section so it's easier to find than buried in a thread.

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            • #22
              Fean, in this case I created all the images in the VCarve software, so they were vector images. Since they were all created in the software, and they tested out OK before I ran the TAP file, it's really sort of puzzling.

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