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Tramming the Router/Spindle

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  • Tramming the Router/Spindle

    I assume that Tramming is the right term. I've searched the forum for more information but I am really not finding enough detail laying out the process. Perhaps someone can point me to a thread or website specific to the Shark that will give me some instructions.

    I have a Shark HD3 that I purchased last year used and fully assembled though it was never used to my knowledge. I added an MDF spoilboard but never bothered to fly cut it to make sure that it was level until this week. I bought a 2" planing bit, setup a tool path and kicked it off to cut a .015 depth with 50% step over. My path was designed to move side-to-side in the X-axis and increment though the Y axis. After just about 3 rows, I noticed that there was a small step between the passes and stopped the operation. I created a new path turned at 90° so that it went in the Y direction and incremented in the X. Same result. This time I decided to let it completely surface the spoilboard and the step between the rows was consistent all the way across I realized that my problem is not that the table is not level (though it may not be) but instead, the plane of the spinning bit is not parallel to the plane formed by the X and Y axes so I need to tilt the router to get it parallel.

    My Router mount is the standard plastic one with 2 clamps sandwiching the shelf (for lack of a better term) that is attached to the gantry. I made a simple tramming device that attaches to a bit in the spindle with a bolt several inches out to measure how far off I am. I determined that the spindle is tilted diagonally (both and X and Y). The device measures just under 5" from spindle to the measuring point and with it just barely skimming the table at one point, it is over 0.050" out on the opposite side. Note that I removed the spoil board for this. Also note that I put a different router into the mount and it is out the same amount.

    My question is what is the best way to go about fixing this. I have tried to place shims between the clamps and the shelf. I have manged to get it closer but even putting a .050 washer under one corner of the top clamp and and another washer on top of the opposite corner of the bottom clamp didn't fully close the gap. It just doesn't seem like this approach is doing what I expected. Is there a better way to make this adjustment. I noticed in one topic discussing a similar problem that one of the pictures shows an aluminum mounting clamp sitting on top of the shelf with shims underneath it. Could I for example move both of the clamps to sit on top of the gantry shelf to make it easier to shim it? Is there another, hopefully better, way to do this? It is a little surprising to me that there is not a built in adjustment for this or detailed instructions somewhere on how to do this.

    BTW, I tried posting this of in the Sharktalk forum as well but there is something wrong with that forum. Every time I try to post something I get an error.